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Vintage Culture - March 2007

Elizabeth Taylor

March 20th 2007 19:15
Elizabeth Taylor

Dame Taylor just had her 75th birthday in February. For some of us she has been a celebrity icon all our lives. The fact is, she has been an icon most of her life, too.
Elizabeth Taylor


Most folks are aware that the pre-teen beauty starred in Lassie Come Home, in 1943, with a man who would become her lifelong friend, Roddy McDowall, (who passed away in 1998)

But, it is fun to look at a Time Magazine article, written in 1949, when Time's writer's speculated about a 17 year old Elizabeth, one of several upcoming stars profiled as a possible future American movie star (but, Liz got the cover!).
Elizabeth Taylor


The article begins with a familiar Hollywood refrain that could have been written yesterday,


"Hollywood, which has a special logic of its own, has a ready answer for one kind of criticism: If entertaining the public and breaking box-office records isn't art, what is?
Beset by choking labor costs, the critical prestige of imported films, the competition of radio and the threat of TV, and public apathy toward many of its tried & true stars, Hollywood has given more than passing thought to art and even culture."

Forty eight years later, all you need is the addition of internet video, and dvds.

The article talks about a girl with almost no temperment (!), who loves ice-cream sodas, movie magazines, and big strong men (well, they were partly right...)
Elizabeth Taylor


Time Magazine looked forward to Ms. Taylor co-starring with Montgomery Clift, an up and coming actor, then, in Theodore Dreiser's An American Trajedy.

The film was released as A Place In The Sun, in 1951 (the story goes that the studio did not want to compete with Sunset Boulevard in 1950, and, won 7 Oscars as a result of its decision) and Ms. Taylor was gorgeous. The late Pauline Kael, a formidable film reviewer wrote the following:

Elizabeth Taylor


" “George Stevens’ most highly respected work is an almost incredibly painstaking movie derived from Dreiser’s An American Tragedy. It is full of meaning-charged details, murky psychological overtones, darkening landscapes, the eerie sounds of a loon, and overlapping dissolves designed to affect you emotionally without your conscious awareness.
“Whatever one thinks about it, it is a famous and impressive film. The performances by Montgomery Clift, Shelley Winters and Elizabeth Taylor are good enough (and Clift is almost too good, too sensitive), though they appear to be over-directed pawns. If Elizabeth Taylor had played the victim in this production, then the poor could at least be shown to have some natural assets. But Shelley Winters makes the victim so horrifyingly, naggingly pathetic that Clift hardly seems to be contemplating a crime: it’s more like euthanasia.”

Pauline Kael


If Pauline Kael says you can act, you can act.

The article continues with details of wedding plans to a young man (which never happened) and ends, "The day is coming soon, say some Hollywood seers, when Elizabeth may get fed up with being watched. They already see signs that she is trying her wings: she is tired of her Cadillac and wants another; she wants a mink stole; in Paris last winter she went on a clothes-buying spree and overdrew her checking account; in London she snapped back at her teacher, "Wouldn't it be nice if Miss Anderson dropped right through the floor!"
"When Elizabeth talks about her future in the movies, her eyes flash sapphire sparks. "What I'd really like to play," she gasps excitedly, "is a monster—a hellion." MGM's Billy Grady thinks she has the temperament as well as the beauty to become a great star—"And when she begins to show it—Oh, Brother!" "

Well, if temperment was a word meaning personality, Ms. Taylor would prove through the decades she had plenty. I thought it was a little over the top when the Pope condemned her for her affair with Richard Burton, during the filming of Cleopatra, but that was just Elizabeth Taylor's life abc.net.au

Elizabeth Taylor


She survived. She survived that, a broken back, seven marriages, and much more. She championed the AIDS cause long before anyone else dared to, blithely ignoring the US government's displeasure and disdain.

What can you say? She's a great Dame.


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Antique Lace

March 17th 2007 21:25
I came across a site, for a vintage lace business, established in the 1970's, in Britian.

It's Mendes

run by Joachim & Betty Mendes, Antique Lace Fans Costume & Textiles
Hove Sussex, Tel: 44 (0)1273 203317 or 07813 014065

Lovely, charming pieces, and they have jewelry as well. Here's a piece from 1908:
Jewelry Early Twentieth Century

Lovely items...
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Fashion In The 1940's

March 17th 2007 01:14
Ingrid Bergman Casablanca


You could argue that French fashion has always been elegant, even in the war years.

From the time when King Louis IV used the gorgeous gilded cage of Versailles to reduce feudal nobles to elegant, and impoverished, fashion mannequins. When King George I of England was at war with France, he still had to order bridal gowns for his future daughter-in-law from Paris.

Ironically, it was an Englishmen named Charles Frederick Worth who is credited with the origin of haute couture. There is a story that the Empress Eugenie, spouse of Napoleon III , was ordered by her husband to wear a dress designed by Worth, which she felt made her look like a curtain.
House of Worth


But, as a result of her (sacrifice) wearing the dress, the number of looms in production were doubled, and Lyon's silk-weaving industry boomed.


However, haute couture took a back seat to World War II.
Women At Work In 1943

In the US women were told it was patriotic to wear pants, as well as go to work.

But, the beautiful Ingrid Bergman personified every women's hope of how she looked in spare minimalism clothing.
Bogart and Bergman Say Good-Bye


After the Nazi's invaded France they wanted to move haute couture to Berlin. According to Really Long Link

"When World War II war began in 1939, Dior served as an officer for the year until France’s surrender. He joined his father and a sister on a farm in Provence until he was offered a job in Paris by the couturier Lucien Lelong, who was lobbying the Germans to revive the couture trade. Dior spent the rest of the War dressing the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators.

"France emerged from World War II in ruins. Half a million buildings were destroyed. Clothes, coal and food were in short supply. Yet there were ample opportunities for new business ventures and fashion was no exception. Dior was invited by a childhood friend from Granville to revive Philippe et Gaston, a struggling clothing company owned by Marcel Boussac, the “King of Cotton” with an empire of racing stables, newspapers and textile mills.

"Boussac met Dior and listened to his theory that the public was ready for a new style after the War. Dior’s description of a luxurious new look with a sumptuous silhouette and billowing skirts had an obvious appeal to a man who owed his wealth to selling large quantities of fabric. Boussac agreed to launch the new couture house in style with a then-unprecedented budget of FFr60 million. Jacques Rouët, a young civil servant, was appointed as its administrator. The house of Dior and its 85 employees moved into a modest mansion at 30 Avenue Montaigne which was decorated in Dior’s favourite colours of white and grey."

Now, haute couture is a matter of law in France. And, though fashion is border less now in our world, there is no denying the pleasure to be taken from the French contribution.


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Rita Hayworth, Star

March 11th 2007 02:42

According to Kingwood College
Library
, in the 1940's, in the States,

the Population was 132,122,000
Unemployed in 1940 - 8,120,000
National Debt $43 Billion
Average Salary $1,299.
Teacher's salary $1,441
Minimum Wage $.43 per hour
55% of U.S. homes have indoor plumbing
Antarctica is discovered to be a continent
Life expectancy 68.2 female, 60.8 male
Auto deaths 34,500
World War II changes the order of world power,
Cold War begins.

and, Rita Hayworth makes the cover of Time Magazine in 1941,
and stars in Gilda in 1946.

There’s a lovely tribute to the star at at this link, YouTube

And, of course, Put The Blame On Mame, located here. YouTube

In 1941, Time Magazine said:

“But only the Big Three (Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 20th Century-Fox, Warner Bros.) are powerful enough to build a star by publicity alone. Paramount and RKO, whose pockets are not so well-lined for promotion, seldom manage to nudge their neophytes beyond the contract-player stage. With neither pretensions nor money to burn, the three remaining studios ——Columbia, Universal, Republic——have to rely on pure ability to turn the trick. To get to heaven, their stars have to be good.
Rita Hayworth is. By all the rules of Hollywood she has won her "S." It took six years, and it wasn't easy. You'll Never Get Rich is her 33rd picture. Just turned 23, she owes considerable thanks for her varsity letter to the sagacity of stubborn, knife-brained Lou Smith, Columbia's publicity head. The rest was due to her own ability and constitution. “
...


NPR has put together a site looking a the making of her famous “nightgown” photograph, which so many soldiers took to war with them.

"I think the editors of LIFE would have considered it too risquéé for the cover," says LIFE photo editor John Morris. "It was OK inside. Was it the talk of the office? I mean, did people know what a phenomenon this photograph was going to be? No, not at all. It had run in the magazine and we were working on the next issue."

Four months after Hayworth's photo was published, America went to war. And soldiers took the silk-and-lace picture along to remind them of home.


By the end of the war, more than 5 million copies of the photo were sold. Only Betty Grable, smiling cutely over her shoulder in a white bathing suit and heels, with legs that went on forever, sold more pin-ups.

Amy Henderson, a cultural historian at the Smithsonian's National Portrait Gallery, sees a real difference in the Hayworth and Grable pin-ups. Grable, she says, had a girl-next-door perkiness about her, while Hayworth was more alluring.

Although she came to be known as "The Love Goddess," Hayworth was shy and even introverted.”

Her influence is still felt rippling throughout culture, from The Shawshank Redemption, originally a story by Stephen King (Rita Hayworth and the Shawshank Redemption) to Notting Hill, when Julia Roberts quotes Miss Hayworth to Hugh Grant, "Every man I knew had fallen in love with Gilda and wakened with me."
(Various quotes on this famous line through the years.)

Time Magazine in her 1987 obituary, wrote

“She had a perfect figure and a smile that could light up the Statue of Liberty. But the feature that most people will probably remember is her hair, whipping seductively around her in Gilda, cascading over her shoulders on the cover of LIFE and in thousands of World War II pinup posters. If Jean Harlow was Hollywood's love goddess in the '30s and Marilyn Monroe in the '50s, the '40s ideal was Rita Hayworth...”

Another quote, reported by Time time link, says:

“ Hayworth was perhaps the best judge of her life. "I haven't had everything from life," she once remarked. "I've had too much."


Rita Hayworth, one of the best memories of the 1940's.
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Rita Hayworth, Star

March 11th 2007 02:41

According to Kingwood College
Library
, in the 1940's, in the States,

[ Click here to read more ]
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Miss Peggy Lee

March 7th 2007 20:22
Miss Peggy Lee

Bob’s radio station played "Fever", by Miss Peggy Lee, this morning, and I couldn’t get the sound of it out of my head. So here is the original, on You Tube, and some clips of other artists' homages to the legendary singer.

[ Click here to read more ]
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Miss Peggy Lee

March 7th 2007 20:19
Miss Peggy Lee

Bob’s radio station played "Fever", by Miss Peggy Lee, this morning, and I couldn’t get the sound of it out of my head. So here is the original, on You Tube, and some clips of other artists' homages to the legendary singer.

[ Click here to read more ]
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